I Returned to the North for the Aurora. Here's Why I'd Go Back Again.

They say you can never experience the same place twice in quite the same way, and after my second trip to Yellowknife and Blachford Lodge, I couldn't agree more. 

In April 2026, I travelled north for the first time to experience Blachford's Frozen Aurora season. I arrived in Yellowknife at 10 p.m., greeted by dancing northern lights above the airport before I'd even made it to the hotel. At the lodge, the landscape was blanketed in snow, Blachford Lake was frozen solid, and the days were filled with winter adventures.

Five months later, I was heading back, this time to experience Aurora Reflections, the lodge's late summer and autumn season from mid-August to mid-October.

I was excited to reconnect with the staff I'd befriended during my first visit, meet some new faces, and hopefully see the northern lights dancing above an unfrozen lake. I was also looking forward to trying the activities that simply weren't possible during my winter stay.

What I discovered was a place that felt wonderfully familiar, yet almost entirely different.

Left: April 2026 from the frozen lake. Right: October 2026 from a kayak on the lake.

Getting to Yellowknife: An Easier Journey Than You Might Think 

My journey began in Ontario, travelling alongside Jennifer from our sales team. This time, we took advantage of Air North's nonstop flight from Toronto Pearson to Yellowknife.

For anyone planning a trip to the Northwest Territories, this is a route worth knowing about!

Air North is a smaller northern airline that doesn't always appear in the flight searches people commonly use, so I'd recommend checking its website directly when planning your journey.

The seasonal nonstop service from Toronto is especially convenient for travellers based in Ontario and Eastern Canada, but Toronto is also a major international gateway. Travellers from the northeastern United States, the United Kingdom, Europe, the Middle East, and beyond may find it a useful connection point for reaching Yellowknife.

It's worth checking seasonal schedules, as nonstop service isn't available year-round.

We landed in Yellowknife around 2 p.m., and the difference from my April arrival was immediate.

Instead of stepping off the plane into darkness with the aurora overhead, I was greeted by daylight and a brisk 2°C afternoon.

For the first time, I could really see the landscape surrounding the airport. The rocky terrain was exposed, and bright yellow leaves on birch, aspen, larch, and poplar trees stood out among the evergreens.

I had seen this landscape covered in snow just months before, but without that blanket of white, it was like seeing it for the first time.

Exploring Yellowknife: More Than Just a Stopover

On both visits, I stayed at The Explorer Hotel, which is a comfortable home base for exploring Yellowknife.

This time I had a Superior King room overlooking Frame Lake. With a king-sized bed, mini fridge, microwave, coffee and tea facilities, desk, Wi-Fi, and a private bathroom, it was a welcome place to retreat to after a day of exploring.

View from The Explorer Hotel room overlooking Frame Lake.

One of my favourite things about Yellowknife is how approachable the city feels. There is so much to explore, and getting around is relatively easy.

We spent time wandering through Old Town, stopping at the Down to Earth Gallery and the Gallery of the Midnight Sun, both worth visiting if you're interested in northern art, gifts, and souvenirs.

We also visited the Bush Pilot's Monument, explored some of Old Town's side streets, and made our way to the famously named Ragged Ass Road.

Along the way, we spotted fossils in the rock and some gorgeous dahlias that were somehow still blooming despite the chilly autumn temperatures.

Getting around was easy. Many of the places we wanted to visit were within walking distance, and taxis were readily available when we needed them. We used City Cab, which sent a tracking link to our phones showing the approaching vehicle and driver details. Most of our fares were around $7–$11 CAD, and every driver we met was friendly.

Of course, no trip is complete without trying some local restaurants.

The Trader's Grill at The Explorer Hotel was a lovely surprise. The restaurant has a fireplace and views of a wooded, rocky area with an inukshuk and string lights, making it a cozy place to enjoy a meal.

We also had dinner at the Copperhouse, where the pizza and cocktails were wonderful.

I would absolutely recommend giving yourself extra time in Yellowknife before or after a stay at Blachford. There are galleries, shops, restaurants, guided excursions, and plenty of opportunities to discover more about the North.

And I still had one more Yellowknife adventure planned for the end of my trip.

From City Streets to Remote Wilderness

On September 29, it was time to head to Blachford Lodge.

During my April visit, we departed from Air Tindi's base near the airport aboard a ski-equipped aircraft, landing directly on the frozen lake.

This time, we departed from Air Tindi's floatplane base in Old Town.

Our flight to Blachford was aboard a Cessna Caravan, and the journey took approximately 25 minutes.

A little travel tip: make sure your phone is safely zipped away when boarding or exiting the floatplane. Otherwise, you might find yourself hiring a local diver to retrieve it from the bottom of the lake!

As we took off, we flew past Yellowknife's colourful houseboat community before heading out over a landscape dotted with countless lakes.

From the air, the autumn colours were spectacular. Vibrant yellows and hints of red were scattered among the deep green evergreens.

We spotted a flock of swans flying over one of the lakes below, old snowmobile and ATV trails winding through the landscape, and the occasional hunting camp or remote cabin.

Then, gradually, there was nothing but wilderness stretching for miles.

Even though I had taken this flight before, the scenery was completely different.

As we approached Blachford, I wondered what landing on the open water would feel like. I expected it to be much bumpier than our landing on the frozen lake in April, but to my surprise, it was just as smooth.

We cruised across the lake toward the main dock, where familiar faces were waiting to welcome us.

A Warm Welcome Back to Blachford

One of the things I had been looking forward to most was reconnecting with the staff members I'd met during my first visit.

Seeing those familiar faces waiting at the dock made it impossible not to smile, and I couldn't help giving a few hugs.

The grounds team collected our tagged luggage and delivered it directly to our rooms and cabins while the lodge manager welcomed everyone and guided us toward the main lodge.

We were offered a continental breakfast with fresh fruit, pastries, yogurt, granola, coffee, tea, and juice before settling in for our welcome orientation.

The orientation covered everything from wildlife safety and exploring the surrounding wilderness to the seasonal activities, hot tub, sauna, and aurora wake-up service.

For guests visiting a remote wilderness lodge for the first time, this introduction is incredibly helpful. You're surrounded by nature, with plenty of freedom to explore, but it's important to understand the environment and how to enjoy it safely.

Once orientation was complete, I headed to my accommodations at The Point cabin.

A Cabin with a View

The Point cabin became my little home in the wilderness for the next several days.

The interior was spacious, comfortably furnished, and equipped with guest-controlled heating, speakers for music, and a cozy bed.

One amenity I particularly appreciated was the ensuite bathroom. There's something very comforting about knowing you don't need to trek through the wilderness in the middle of the night to use the washroom!

But my favourite part was the privacy and the view.

Each morning, I could step outside onto my deck and look out over the surrounding landscape.

A short walk from the cabin led to a rocky point along the shoreline, offering a beautiful view back toward the main lodge from lake level.

At night, I loved falling asleep listening to the wind and waves outside.

It was such a contrast from my April visit. Without the snow, I could see the exposed rocks, patches of grass, moss, and lichen that make up this rugged northern landscape.

The lodge itself sits on a rare relatively flat section of an otherwise rocky outcrop, something I hadn't fully appreciated when everything was covered in snow.

Everything looked familiar, but there was so much more to discover.

Autumn Adventures: Hiking, Kayaking and a Few Surprises

One of the biggest differences between Blachford's Frozen Aurora and Aurora Reflections seasons is how you explore the landscape.

In April, I had enjoyed ice skating, ice fishing, winter hiking, and walking across the frozen lake.

This time, the lake was open water, and the adventures looked very different.

On Thursday, I headed out on the Secret Lookout trail with two staff members who were enjoying some time off and decided to join me for a hike.

Our walk took approximately an hour round-trip. Along the way, we spotted birds, squirrels, and even some bear scat, a little reminder that we were exploring genuine wilderness.

I also found myself paying more attention to the smaller details of the landscape: the moss and lichen growing across the rocks, mushrooms tucked among the vegetation, and Labrador tea growing nearby.

Later that afternoon, I headed out onto Blachford Lake in a kayak.

This may have been my favourite activity of the entire stay.

We paddled out toward what we affectionately refer to as Shin Island because of a returning photographer who uses it as a camp for his own overnight aurora photography experience. The island is sometimes also called The Royal Island which has a special connection to the 2011 royal visit to Blachford Lodge by Prince William and Catherine.

The experience of paddling across the very same lake I had stood on just five months earlier was incredible.

In April, the frozen surface had allowed us to walk across areas that were now only accessible by boat or paddle.

The weather had been pleasant when we set out, but it changed while we were on the water. By the time we returned, the wind had picked up and the waves had made sure I was thoroughly wet.

Fortunately, the grounds team had been keeping an eye on us from shore and met us at the docks to help us out of the kayak and canoe.

It was a small moment that really demonstrated the care the team takes in looking after guests.

And despite getting soaked, I'd do it again!

We also had an unexpected wildlife visitor one evening.

During dinner, a black bear appeared outside the lodge. Naturally, everyone got excited and moved toward the windows for a better look.

The bear, apparently less enthusiastic about meeting us, quickly ran off.

Throughout the stay, we also saw plenty of ravens, grey jays, and red squirrels.

Good Food, Great Company and a Remote Wilderness Kitchen

One thing that continues to delight me about Blachford is the food.

When you consider that the lodge is miles from the nearest grocery store and supplies have to arrive by plane, the meals are consistently impressive.

During my April visit, Chef Yves had spoiled us with wonderful food. This time, Chef Pete was in the kitchen, bringing the same culinary magic I'd heard rumour of from his cooking on some of Arctic Kingdom's Arctic expeditions.

One evening, he prepared a ravioli appetizer that was absolutely phenomenal.

I genuinely could have eaten the entire pan and called it dinner.

Fortunately, I saved some room because we also enjoyed a variety of wonderful dishes featuring northern proteins, including bison and Arctic char.

One of my favourites was a bison chili we had for one of our lunches. Hearty, delicious, and exactly the kind of meal you want after spending time outside in the northern air.

But some of the best dining memories weren't just about the food.

On Friday evening, we gathered with the guests for a group dinner and conversation.

Our small group included guests visiting from Texas with roots in Taiwan, as well as a guest from Uruguay.

Everyone had such different backgrounds, stories, and perspectives, and I found the conversations absolutely fascinating.

It's amazing how quickly strangers can become friends when you're sharing meals and experiences in a remote place like Blachford.

Those are the moments I know I'll remember for a long time.

Finding Time to Relax

While there are plenty of opportunities for adventure, one of the joys of Blachford is that you can set your own pace.

During my stay, I made time to enjoy the outdoor hot tub and spent an evening around the bonfire near the guest cabins. The atmosphere all around was intimate and relaxed.

We also enjoyed a guided dreamcatcher-making activity.

One guest loved it so much that she made several dreamcatchers to take home as souvenirs. She was determined to perfect the process so she could recreate them with her grandchildren once she returned home.

I loved that.

Not every memorable travel experience has to be a grand adventure. Sometimes it's something as simple as learning a new skill, sharing stories around a table, or taking time to appreciate where you are.

Waiting for the Northern Lights

Of course, the biggest reason many travellers visit Blachford during Aurora Reflections season is the chance to see the northern lights reflected across the lake.

And I was no exception.

After experiencing spectacular aurora during my April visit, I couldn't wait to see what they might look like over open water.

Unfortunately, the weather had other plans.

Cloud coverage followed us throughout much of our stay, making aurora viewing challenging.

We knew the northern lights were active above the clouds, but seeing them from the ground was another matter.

Our aurora watch guide, Jon, remained endlessly hopeful.

Throughout the evenings, he checked the skies every 10–15 minutes, moving between different sides of the lodge to look for breaks in the clouds or signs of aurora.

I chose to spend most evenings in the main lodge, catching up on emails, reading, and staying up much later than I probably should have.

Other guests preferred to retreat to their rooms or cabins, knowing they could rely on the aurora wake-up service.

When the lights became visible, Jon would personally visit the accommodations of guests who had requested a wake-up call, inviting them outside to enjoy the display.

On Wednesday and Thursday nights, we caught glimpses of faint aurora through the clouds.

Interestingly, the cloud cover created some beautiful effects of its own. When the northern lights shone through thinner sections of cloud, the sky appeared to glow with soft green light.

One evening on our final night, we gathered around a bonfire, watching the sky and sharing stories about the northern lights.

We could see hints of the aurora glowing behind the clouds, but the sky remained mostly covered.

It was fascinating to hear everyone's different experiences, spiritual interpretations, and reasons for travelling so far to witness the aurora.

One guest shared a perspective that stayed with me.

Even though she couldn't clearly see the lights, simply being surrounded by nature felt grounding. She knew the aurora was there, somewhere above the clouds, and she was happy just to feel connected to that experience.

It was a lovely reminder that the northern lights are only one part of what makes a visit to Blachford special.

As the evening grew later, we walked one of the guests back to the lodge for the night. And that was when everything changed.

The clouds finally parted.

One Last Night of Aurora Magic

There they were.

The northern lights were dancing directly above us.

After several nights of watching the forecasts and waiting for the clouds to clear, our final night at Blachford had given us an incredible surprise.

After so much anticipation, it was an emotional moment for everyone.

I was thrilled, and Jon was just as happy to finally share the experience our guests had travelled so far to see.

There was something particularly special about seeing the excitement on their faces after days of waiting.

For the first time during our stay, the aurora was also bright enough to cast a subtle reflection across the surface of Blachford Lake.

The lake had already been beautiful at night, reflecting the nearly full moon and clouds throughout our visit. But seeing even a hint of green aurora on the water was something else entirely.

In my mind, an aurora reflection is simply double the magic.

And while the weather hadn't given us the clear skies we'd hoped for every night, that final display made the anticipation feel worthwhile.

Aurora Reflections or Frozen Aurora: What's the Difference?

Having experienced both seasons in the same year, I can confidently say that they offer two very different ways to discover Blachford.

During Frozen Aurora, the landscape is covered in snow and the lake becomes an extension of the property. Activities such as ice fishing, ice skating, and winter hiking give guests opportunities to experience the frozen wilderness in ways that simply aren't possible in autumn.

We were fortunate to have clear skies and spectacular aurora during my April visit, but the temperatures were much colder.

Left: Aurora over tipi in April. Right: Photo of author Olivia in winter gear by Catherine Pentiricci April 2026.

Most nights, I would spend around 20–30 minutes outside watching the aurora before heading indoors for 10–15 minutes to warm up.

During Aurora Reflections, temperatures hovered around freezing, which meant I could comfortably spend much longer stretches outside with the right layers.

The open water brings new possibilities for kayaking, canoeing, and exploring the shoreline, while the autumn colours add another dimension to an already stunning landscape.

And, of course, there's the possibility of seeing the aurora reflected across the lake.

Neither season guarantees clear skies or northern lights, but both offer their own wonderful experiences.

I don't think I could choose a favourite.

One Last Yellowknife Adventure

On October 3, we said goodbye to Blachford and returned to Yellowknife aboard an Air Tindi Twin Otter.

Leaving the lodge is always bittersweet.

After just a few days, the place starts to feel like home, and the staff and fellow guests begin to feel like family.

But I still had one more adventure planned.

I joined a guided hike to Cameron Falls with North Star Adventures, and it was a fantastic way to spend some extra time in the Northwest Territories.

Our guides were friendly and knowledgeable, sharing information about the local flora and fauna as we explored.

The hike offered beautiful scenery and views of the impressive waterfall. It was another reminder of just how much there is to experience in the Yellowknife area beyond the northern lights.

That evening, I headed to the NWT Brewing Company for dinner and a drink. It was a lively, popular local spot and a great way to wrap up my time in the city.

If you're planning a visit to Blachford, I really do recommend adding a few extra days in Yellowknife on either side of your lodge stay.

There's so much to see, eat, and experience, and the city deserves more than a quick overnight stop.

A Few Tips for Planning Your Own Aurora Reflections Adventure

After two visits to Blachford in very different seasons, I've learned a few things about preparing for a northern adventure.

First, pack plenty of layers.

Even during autumn, temperatures can hover around freezing, especially when you're spending long evenings outside watching the sky. Sweaters, warm layers, and a waterproof jacket are all worth bringing.

Good walking shoes or boots are also essential. The terrain around Blachford is rocky and uneven, and you'll want footwear that allows you to explore comfortably.

If you're bringing a camera, pack extra batteries and a tripod. A portable battery pack is also useful for keeping your phone charged during those long aurora-watching nights.

If you're planning to photograph the northern lights with your phone, familiarize yourself with its night or pro camera mode before travelling. Adjusting settings such as ISO, shutter speed, and aperture where available can help capture the aurora more clearly.

And don't forget a good book!

There may be evenings when the clouds roll in and the aurora takes its time making an appearance. Having something relaxing to do while you wait is all part of the experience.

Most importantly, bring patience and a sense of adventure.

The weather and northern lights don't follow a schedule, but there's so much to enjoy even when the skies don't cooperate.

Two Seasons, One Place That Feels Like Home

When I think back on this trip, it's difficult to choose a single favourite moment.

I loved exploring more of Yellowknife, discovering new trails, kayaking across Blachford Lake, reconnecting with familiar faces, and meeting guests from different corners of the world.

And, of course, I'll never forget that final night when the clouds cleared and the northern lights finally danced above us.

But what continues to draw me back to Blachford isn't just the scenery or the aurora.

It's the people, the atmosphere, the incredible food, and the feeling of being somewhere wonderfully removed from everyday life.

In April, I discovered a frozen wilderness. In September, I returned to find open water, autumn colours, and entirely new adventures.

Both visits were unforgettable for completely different reasons.

And both times, I left feeling a little sad to say goodbye.

There's something about Blachford that makes it feel like home, even when you're hundreds of kilometres from your own.

I went back expecting to discover a different season. Instead, I found even more reasons to return.